Bear Canyon Trail

It’s called Bear Canyon, and there are bears out there, but the chances of seeing a mountain lion are better. And the odds are on the rise because, over the years, mountain lions have become less intimidated by human beings and now roam around in broad daylight, especially in this wilderness area. If you happen to see one, maintain eye contact, make yourself look as big as possible, don’t run, don’t turn your back, and never, ever say, “Heeeeere, kitty, kitty, kitty.” In most cases, the cat will veer off and move away, allowing you to catch your breath, mark the memory and brag about it later.

Lions or no lions, the route begins at the Sabino Canyon Recreation Area visitors center. From there, you have two choices: Take the shuttle bus to the Bear Canyon Overlook picnic area, or start hiking immediately and skip the bus. The second option adds 3 miles (round-trip) to the hike, but they’re easy miles and you won’t be at the mercy of a bus schedule.

The longer route kicks off with a short walk on a wide dirt path known as the Bajada Trail. You won’t be alone. This is a gorgeous park that attracts about 1.3 million people a year. Eventually, though, the crowds thin out, and by the time you get to Seven Falls, you’ll have some solitude. Especially in the winter, when the rain and the melting snow can make crossing Bear Creek a challenge. In all, there are seven crossings on the way to the waterfalls, which are the highlight of the hike, and also a reference point — locals refer to this route as the Seven Falls Trail. By any name, it’s a great desert hike, and when there’s water in the creek, it’s one of the best. 

After about 15 minutes on the Bajada Trail, you’ll see a sign for Bear Canyon. Head that way and enjoy the views. The saguaros, paloverdes, chollas, prickly pears, mesquites and more make this a classic Sonoran Desert landscape. Add in the horses you’ll likely see along the way, and it becomes a flashback to an old Western.

The trail winds through that scene for about 45 minutes to the Bear Canyon Overlook bus stop. Just before you get there, take note of the massive saguaros — there are some giants growing along the steep slopes. Equally impressive is the creek that begins just beyond the bus stop. It’s the lifeblood of this riparian area, which is protected by the Pusch Ridge Wilderness and its nearly 60,000 acres. 

Although the creek has a tendency to dry up at times, in the winter, you should get a healthy dose of water. It’s cold, and it’s almost impossible to cross the creek without getting your feet wet. There are different strategies for getting to the other side. Some people wear water socks, and some try rock-hopping. With any approach, you might get wet, but it’s a small price to pay for what’s ahead.

The trek along the creek takes about an hour, at which point you’ll start climbing away from the water and come to a sign that reads, “No Shortcuts.” This is the start of a long switchback that will have you thinking you’re backtracking and going the wrong way. You’re not. It’s one long switchback — one zig and one zag — that takes you a couple hundred feet up the side of the canyon. 

About 15 minutes later, the trail arrives at a signed intersection. The route to the right heads into Sabino Basin. The trail to the left drops down for 0.2 miles to the payoff, which ranks as one of the best of any trail in Arizona. It’s not as dramatic as the view from Point Sublime on the North Rim, or as heart-racing as coming face to face with a mountain lion, but seeing those seven waterfalls pouring over the rocks is rare and spectacular. With or without the wildlife.