BEAUTIFUL SITES

S'mores and campfire tales aren't the only good things that come with camping. Fresh air, chance encounters with wildlife and a healthy helping of Mother Nature are happy side effects. Plus, it's a great way to explore some of the state's most beautiful destinations. Here are 12 of them. BY KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER

EDITOR'S NOTE: Camping in Arizona, and in a wide range of environments, involves some degree of physical risk. Weather, wildlife, your own physical condition and your knowledge of the backcountry can be factors in the success or failure of your trip. Before you go, plan accordingly - investigate road and weather conditions, pack more water than you think you'll need and, as always, tell someone where you're going and when you plan to return. Unless otherwise indicated, reservations may be made through the National Recreation Reservation Service: www.recreation.gov.

A lakefront campsite at Ashurst Lake Campground is an ideal place to spot frogs and Steller's jays. shane mcdermott

1 Ashurst Lake Campground COCONINO NATIONAL FOREST

The road to Ashurst Lake Campground climbs amid pine trees, then flattens along a juniper-speckled land. Although the road's a bit rocky - just like the terrain around the campground - it doesn't seem to bother the big birds that flock to Ashurst Lake. Bald eagles, ospreys, hawks and white-faced ibises are known to frequent the area thanks to the lake's population of trout, bass and channel catfish. That's also why this lake is popular among human anglers. You might also spot ducks - pintails and cinnamon teals - and a windsurfer or two. They're keen on the big gusts that rattle the surrounding junipers and spread the scent of clean air across the campground. Campers will delight in two lakefront sites, which are tempered slightly by the view of power lines across the lake. That view, however, is easy to ignore, mostly because you'll quickly get lost in the sounds of Steller's jays and lake-loving frogs. Non-lakefront sites feature soft spots to pitch a tent and ample views of big sky.

Campfire tale: The bald eagle nesting season in Arizona typically runs from December through June. However, in higher elevations, bald eagle pairs tend to nest a bit later in the summer.

Leave a place better than you found it. That's the bottom line. Generations before you have enjoyed the campgrounds featured here and maintained them so that you can enjoy them today. It's your job to protect them for future generations. Do so by following the seven principles of leave no trace:

2 DeMotte Campground KAIBAB NATIONAL FOREST

It's cold on the Kaibab Plateau, and at an elevation of 8,760 feet, DeMotte Campground can be chilly, too. That's why it doesn't open until mid-May - or later, if seasonal snowfall has been heavy. Come summer, this campground is worth a trip. Moderately sized, with 38 campsites, DeMotte isn't too crowded. Pine trees and meadows make up the immediate scenery, and those meadows are popular with wildlife - mule deer, squirrels, chipmunks and more. While the meadows are something to marvel at, the campground is only 7 miles from the entrance to Grand Canyon National Park. There, of course, you'll find some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. For adventurers, several hiking trails originate on the North Rim. They include the North Kaibab Trail, which runs 14 miles into the Canyon and ends at the Colorado River and Bright Angel Campground. Back at DeMotte, you'll find picnic tables, fire pits and grills, and those will come in handy either for making s'mores or for staying warm.

Elevation: 8,760 feet Directions: From Jacob Lake, drive south on State Route 67 for 26 miles to the campground.

Information: North Kaibab Ranger District, 928-643-7395 or www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab

Season: Mid-May through mid-October

Fee: $17 per night

Reservations: Yes

Amenities:

Campfire tale: In 1872, Major John Wesley Powell named DeMotte Park on the Kaibab Plateau for Harvey C. DeMotte, a mathematics professor from Wesleyan University who traveled with Powell's party during its expedition through the Grand Canyon.

GET IN GEAR

Preparing for a camping trip is similar, in many ways, to preparing for any other adventure. While you might want to travel light, it's always a good idea to pack more provisions than you think you'll need, especially when it comes to clothing, water and food.

BASIC EQUIPMENT:

TELL ME A STORY

A charming tale is to a campfire gathering as a toast is to a wedding - it's rare to have one without the other. And when it comes to great campfire stories, perhaps no one wrote a better one than did Robert W. Service, who penned The Cremation of Sam McGee. The 15-stanza ballad tells the fictional story of gold-seeker Sam McGee, who met an unpleasant fate during his journey west. You'll find it and more of Service's work on the Poetry Foundation's website, www.poetry foundation.org.

3 Christopher Creek Campground TONTO NATIONAL FOREST

You'll pass Camp Tontozona on your way to Christopher Creek. That's where the Sun Devils of Arizona State University hold their summer football camp. Although the players will be sweating in the pines, the opposite is true for campers at Christopher Creek. This is a place to kick back and breathe some crisp, fresh air. Christopher Creek runs right through this campground, and it's possible to fish for trout in its waters. Obey all warning signs, though. The creek is prone to flash flooding during rainstorms. While anglers visit this campground because of its trout population, so do bears, and you'll see plenty of warning signs to that effect. Fish and bears aside, Christopher Creek is one very green, very pretty campground. Some sites are perched atop mini-stairs made of logs, and it's possible to camp right along the edge of the creek. Imagine falling asleep to the sound of water and the whisper of wind through the pines.

ELEVATION: 5,600 feet DIRECTIONS: From Payson, drive east on State Route 260 for approximately 19 miles to the turnoff for Christopher Creek (Forest Road 159), which will be on your left. Follow the paved road past Christopher Creek Picnic Area to the campground.

INFORMATION: Payson Ranger District, 928-4747900 or www.fs.usda.gov/tonto

SEASON: April through October

FEE: $16 per night

RESERVATIONS: No

AMENITIES:

CAMPFIRE TALE: The hamlet of Christopher Creek lies 22 miles east of Payson, below the Mogollon Rim. And, according to the town's website, things are pretty laid-back there: "Christopher Creek is for people who want to hear the wind in the high mountain forest, the rushing water of our pristine mountain streams or the bugle of a Rocky Mountain elk."

4 Cave Springs Campground COCONINO NATIONAL FOREST

Red Rock Country is recreation country, and as you make the drive from Sedona, through Oak Creek Canyon, to this campground, you'll realize that you're in the presence of like-minded individuals who just want to be outside. So, be prepared for a bit of traffic, especially on weekends. As the road gains elevation, leafy trees and big pines come into view, and that fine foliage is exactly what you'll find at Cave Springs Campground. Tucked away along Oak Creek and shaded by tall, lanky pine trees and red-rock canyon walls, this campground is kidfriendly (Slide Rock State Park is just minutes away), spacious and scenic. There's even a broad green meadow that softens the view of the rugged canyon walls. Sites A15 and A21 are definite gems, backing right up to the creek.

ELEVATION: 5,402 feet DIRECTIONS: From the junction of State Route 179 and State Route 89A in Sedona, drive north on SR 89A for 13 miles to the campground, which is on the left.

INFORMATION: Red Rock Ranger District, 928282-4119 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino

SEASON: April through October

FEE: $18 per night

RESERVATIONS: Yes

AMENITIES: CAMPFIRE TALE: Slide Rock State Park originally was part of the Pendley Homestead, a 43-acre apple orchard in Oak Creek Canyon. Today, the park, which is named for the slippery creek bottom that runs adjacent to the homestead, is a prime destination for summer tourists.

DON'T PICK YOUR POISON

Poison ivy rashes aren't pleasant. They itch, they burn and, in the words of one unlucky editor, they "feel like your skin has been left to the discretion of a million mosquitoes." So, in order to avoid the burn, learn to identify the problematic plant.

Ponderosa pines and oxeye daisies dominate the landscape at Spillway Campground on the Mogollon Rim.

Spillway Campground APACHE-SITGREAVES NATIONAL FORESTS

Remember the really popular girl from high school? You know the one - she sat behind you in math class. Her hair and nails were perfect, all the boys loved her, and she never had to buy her own ticket to the football game. Consider Spillway Campground that girl. Adjacent to Woods Canyon Lake, Spillway is the crème de la crème of Mogollon Rim campgrounds. That's mostly because it's just so... pretty. It's coiffed with ponderosa pines, firs and oaks and accessorized with great views of the lake. The 5-mile Woods Canyon Lake Loop Trail begins at the campground and runs around the lake, where you'll find anglers and boaters rejoicing in the gorgeous scenery. The campground itself features a paved road, grills and picnic tables, and 26 spacious sites. Like the girl from math class and because of its many charms, Spillway is popular, especially among families. You'll need to get there early in order to snag a site, especially on weekends. Or plan ahead and set a date - reservations are available here.

ELEVATION: 7,500 feet DIRECTIONS: From Payson, drive east on State Route 260 for approximately 30 miles to Forest Road 300 and turn left. Continue on FR 300 for approximately 5 miles to the campground.

INFORMATION: Black Mesa Ranger District, 928535-7300 or www.fs.usda.gov/asnf

SEASON: Mid-May through September

FEE: $22 per night

RESERVATIONS: Yes

AMENITIES: CAMPFIRE TALE: Woods Canyon Lake was formed by an earthen dam along Chevelon Creek. The lake has an average depth of 25 feet and a surface area of 55 acres.

FULL MOON RISING

Camping beneath a full moon has its charm, and thanks to the Farmer's Almanac, you can plan a trip into the woods when they're bathed in lunar light. Here's a list of upcoming full moons, as well as the names given to them by the Algonquin Indian tribes:

Lockett Meadow Campground

The clouds seem to hang low at Lockett Meadow, but maybe that's because the San Francisco Peaks loom so large. The peaks, the remains of a volcano, are just part of the scenic beauty at this campground. The aspens also will awe you. The campground is rustic, unhosted and one of the most charming in Arizona. It's set among the aspens, and each of the 17 sites offers spectacular views of the wilderness, including the ashy, cinder-cone landscape. In spring, the meadow plays host to wildflowers. In summer, the aspens blaze a brilliant green with new leaves. In fall, that foliage goes from green to gorgeous gold. Sites 7 and 8 are perhaps the most scenic, while 13 through 15 are nothing to scoff at, either. You won't find a bad site in the bunch, and if you're lucky, you'll

FIREWOOD FACTS

Just because there's an abundance of trees in Arizona's national forests doesn't mean you can take whatever wood you please to fuel your campfire. In fact, U.S. Forest Service rules are quite specific: Down and dead firewood may be gathered near your campsite, but it's illegal to load wood into a vehicle to remove it from the forest without a special permit. It's also against the law to cut standing trees, or to remove limbs from standing trees, for use as firewood. For specific information about wood-gathering permits, contact the Forest Service.

Information: Flagstaff Ranger District, 928527-3600 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino season: Mid-May through mid-September fee: $12 per night reservations: No amenities: Campfire tale: Flagstaff was named for a flag-raising ceremony that occurred July 4, 1876. Settlers trimmed a pine tree and raised a flag in celebration of the nation's Centennial.

See one of the area's wild residents during your stay. Just as people are, porcupines, elk and black bears are drawn to Lockett Meadow. elevation: 8,544 feet directions: From downtown Flagstaff, drive northeast on U.S. Route 89 for 15.7 miles to Forest Road 420 (directly across from the turnoff for Sunset Crater) and turn left (west). Follow FR 420 for 0.5 miles to Forest Road 552, and turn right at the sign for Lockett Meadow. Continue on FR 552 for 1.1 miles, turn right and follow the road to the campground.

Benny Creek Campground APACHE-SITGREAVES NATIONAL FORESTS

The road to Benny Creek Campground meanders through a stand of ponderosa pines before snuggling up between meadows on one side and views of Bunch Reservoir on the other. It's a pretty precursor to this White Mountains campground, which overlooks its namesake creek. There are 26 spacious sites here, and all of them feature soft dirt. That may not sound like an amenity, but think about it - if you're going to pitch a tent and sleep on the ground, wouldn't you rather it be on a soft surface instead of a rocky, ragged one? In fact, there's nothing ragged, rocky or rickety about this hosted campground, which features picnic tables, fire rings and grills at every site. And even though there aren't any utility hookups here, the sites can accommodate trailers and motor homes up to 24 feet in length. No matter how you cruise into Benny Creek, be on the lookout for creatures great and small. Deer, chipmunks and Abert's squirrels are known to frequent the campground. elevation: 8,250 feet directions: From Greer, drive 2.5 miles north on State Route 373 to the campground, which is on the right. information: Springerville Ranger District, 928-333-4301 or www.fs.usda.gov/asnf season: May through September fee: $10 per night reservations: Yes amenities: Campfire tale: Abert's squirrels are named for Colonel John James Abert, a naturalist who headed the U.S. Army Corps of Topographical Engineers.

8 Cunningham Campground CORONADO NATIONAL FOREST

Tucked between Grant and Moonshine creeks near the top of Mount Graham, this fairly primitive campground was spruced up as part of the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009. Shaded by elegant stands of aspens and firs, Cunningham is the starting point for several hiking trails, including the Grant Creek and Grant Goudy Ridge trails, both of which reference Fort Grant, the former Army post on the southwestern slope of the mountain. But easy access to Pinaleño Mountains hiking trails isn't the only thing that makes this campground special. It also features a corral, which you won't find at too many campgrounds in the state. So, if you're a traveler by horseback, this is a great place to tether your mount for the night. Car-campers won't be disappointed here, either. Ten sites feature fire pits and grills, and the aforementioned aspens surround many of the sites, particularly Nos. 2 and 9. The only downside to camping here in the warm summer months? Bugs. Lots of them. And while they're easily dissuaded by bug spray and screens, they can be annoying while you're searching for the spray in your backpack. If you can handle that, you won't regret parking your steed - steel or saddled - at Cunningham.

ELEVATION: 9,000 feet DIRECTIONS: From Safford, drive south on U.S. Route 191 for approximately 8 miles to State Route 366 and turn right. Follow SR 366 for approximately 26 miles to the campground.

S'MORE INFORMATION

When marshmallows became popular at the turn of the 20th century, so did s'mores, the gooey snack that's now a favorite around the campfire. The first official recipe for s'mores was published in the 1927 Girl Scout handbook. For the perfect s'more, heat one large marshmallow over an open flame until it begins to brown and melt. Break a graham cracker in half, and sandwich a 1.5-ounce bar of chocolate between the graham cracker and the hot marshmallow. Allow the marshmallow to cool before taking a bite.

INFORMATION: Safford Ranger District, 928-428-4150 or www.fs.usda.gov/coronado

SEASON: Mid-April through mid-October

FEE: $10 per night

RESERVATIONS: No

AMENITIES: CAMPFIRE TALE: The Army abandoned Fort Grant in 1905, but after Arizona gained statehood in 1912, the fort became the Fort Grant State Industrial School. Decades later, in 1968, the state assigned Fort Grant to the Department of Corrections. Today, it's a unit of the Arizona State Prison Complex at Safford.

9 Riggs Flat Campground CORONADO NATIONAL FOREST

Riggs Flat Campground might be the crown jewel of campgrounds in the Safford area. Located near the top of Mount Graham in the Pinaleño Mountains, the campground is reminiscent of something Rockwellian - imagine children fishing on the banks of Riggs Lake and dads prepping a barbecued feast. Indeed, fishing and boating in the bright blue waters of the 11-acre lake are this campground's main draws, as are the wildlife-viewing opportunities and cool mountain air. Soldier Creek Campground is nearby, and there you'll find the Grant Goudy Ridge hiking trail, which leads down Mount Graham to Fort Grant. Back at Riggs Flat, there are 31 individual campsites and one small-ish group-camping site. There are also plenty of warnings about black bears, so be bear aware - remember to keep all food out of reach and out of sight. That means you, dads. ELEVATION: 8,600 feet DIRECTIONS: From Safford, drive south on U.S. Route 191 for 8 miles to State Route 366 and turn right. Continue on SR 366 for 29 miles to the Columbine Visitors Information Station, then continue on Forest Roads 803 and 287 for approximately 5 miles to the campground.

INFORMATION: Safford Ranger District, 928-428-4150 or www.fs.usda.gov/coronado

SEASON: Mid-April through mid-November

FEES: $10 per night

RESERVATIONS: No

AMENITIES: CAMPFIRE TALE: The Arizona Game and Fish Department financed the dam that formed Riggs Flat Lake in 1957. Today, the department stocks brown, brook and rainbow trout in its waters. Bugs can be bothersome during summer camping at Cunningham Campground, but using a pull-along trailer, such as this Aliner pop-up model, might help. | RANDY PRENTICE

THE BURN

The wallow fire - the biggest wildfire in arizona history - exploded when two campers failed to completely extinguish their campfire. they left for a hike and returned to find the forest ablaze. ultimately, wallow burned more than 530,000 acres in the apache-sitgreaves national forests. it could have been prevented. each of the campgrounds in our “camping guide” features fire pits and grills. use them. and when it’s time to leave, make sure your campfires are out - dead out. the u.s. forest service provides these guidelines:

The arizona interagency wildfire prevention organization offers up-to-the-minute information about active wildfires in arizona. call 877-864-6985 or visit www. azfireinfo.az.gov.

10 KP Cienega Campground

APACHE-SITGREAVES NATIONAL FORESTS

Campers access KP Cienega via Forest Road 55. About a mile in, you'll notice a beautiful meadow to your right. Don't be surprised to see Steller's jays or rare northern goshawks flitting about. Not even a half-mile farther down the road, you'll come to KP Trail No. 70, a strenu-ous, 9-mile hike that wanders along the south fork of KP Creek as it ambles toward the Blue River. You'll also see a burn area that predates the Wallow Fire - it's experiencing a rebirth of vegetation thanks to brilliant green ferns. The campground lies just beyond the burn area and features five sites. Although it's small, it's mighty in terms of beauty - think grasses, ferns, enormous pines, and Colorado blue and Engelmann spruce. This is Arizona's backcounTry at its finest.

information: Alpine Ranger District, 928-339-5000 or www.fs.usda.gov/asnf

Season: April through September

season: April through September

fees: None

reservations: No

amenities:

Campfire tale: Cienega is the Spanish term for a spring. It's used often in the Southwest to describe a marshy or grassy area in a canyon or at the foot of a mountain.

11 Luna Lake Campground APACHE-SITGREAVES NATIONAL FORESTS

Luna Lake is the largest campground in the Alpine Ranger District, which means that even during peak season, you're likely to find a site here. Bordering its namesake lake, the campground is well developed and features a boat ramp, a tackle shop and plenty of motor-home and trailer parking. Water recreation rules here, and fishing is particularly popular, thanks to regularly stocked rainbow trout. Wildflowerabundant meadows that surround a grove of ponderosa pines will appeal to campers who prefer to explore on foot, and wildlife-viewing opportunities abound. Elk and wild turkeys are just as fond of the campground as are summer visitors. Mountain-biking and hiking trails run all over the area near the lake, and Blue River Road begins just across from the campground. The scenic route meanders into the heart of the Blue Range Primitive Area. When you return to camp, try to snag site 25 or site 27 - they have the best views of the lake.

elevation: 7,960 feet Directions: From Alpine, drive east on U.S. Route 180 for approximately 3.8 miles to Luna Lake Recreation Area. Follow the gravel road (Forest Road 570) for approximately 1.5 miles to the campground.

Information: Alpine Ranger District, 928-3395000 or www.fs.usda.gov/asnf

Season: April through September

Fees: $12 per night

Reservations: Yes

Amenities: A campfire tale: Luna Lake Wildlife Area provides a riparian habitat for countless birds, mammals, fish and amphibians - from bats and bald eagles to tree frogs, weasels and elk.

lightning is a common phenomenon in arizona, especially at higher elevations, such as along the mogollon rim. it's frequent during monsoon season, which, incidentally, falls during summer - just when people are gung-ho to head to higher elevations. if you're caught outdoors when a storm is imminent, avoid exposed areas such as meadows and lakes. don't stand near tall trees or other large objects. of course, don't stand in water. if you're caught in a lightning storm, crouch as low as possible with your feet flat on the ground. if you have a backpack, put it on the ground, then crouch on top of it. the pack can help insulate you from a strike.

WHEN LIGHTNING STRIKES 12 Hualapai Mountain Campground HUALAPAI MOUNTAIN PARK

Camping comes in many forms at hualapai mountain park. there are 18 cabins here, as well as a teepee. yes, you can camp in a teepee. and if you have kids, it's something you should do at least once. just think of the photo opportunities. but there are also standard campsites here - 80 of them, to be exact - and 11 rv-friendly spots. the civilian conservation corps built the 2,300-acre park in the 1930s. it's located in a surprisingly gorgeous mountain setting just outside of kingman, and because of its