WILDFLOWERS 2013

by robert stieve & kelly vaughn kramer photographs by george stocking

EDITOR'S NOTE: As you gear up to explore some of the areas featured in the next 10 pages, keep in mind that many of them are remote, and trails might be unmarked and hard to follow. In addition, remember that back-road travel can be hazardous, so be aware of weather and road conditions, carry plenty of water, and let someone know where you're going and when you plan to return. Finally, memorize and adhere to the Leave-No-Trace principles (see page 54).

Rawhide Wilderness

Although it's not as popular as some of the other wilderness areas in Arizona, the Rawhide Wilderness southeast of Lake Havasu City is equally wild, and it's a great place to see spring wildflowers. The wilderness, which was designated in 1990 and comprises 38,470 acres, includes portions of two mountain ranges the Rawhide Mountains to the north and the Buckskins to the south - separated by 8 miles of the Bill Williams River. More than 5 miles of this perennial stream meander through a 600-foot-deep gorge, and several rocky side canyons with small waterfalls enter the main canyon within the wilderness. The riparian environment supports a variety of plants and animals, including a cottonwood-willow plant community, beavers, raptors, amphibians, reptiles and, of course, wildflowers.

DIRECTIONS: From Wenden, drive north for 38 miles on Alamo Dam Road. The Bill Williams River gorge is located downstream from Alamo Dam. Parking is available at the dam overlook. It's 1.5 miles from the overlook to the bottom of the dam where the gorge begins.

VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None INFORMATION: Bureau of Land Management, Colorado River District, 928-505-1200 or www.blm.gov/az

Lost Dutchman State Park

Forty miles east of Phoenix, Lost Dutchman State Park is nestled within the Superstition Mountains, home, legend says, to Jacob Waltz's "lost" gold cache. "The Dutchman," as Waltz was known - despite being a native of Germany - is said to have revealed the location of the treasure before his death in 1890, but it's yet to be discovered. Today, Lost Dutchman State Park is popular among hikers and equestrians and provides a gateway into the Superstition Wilderness, where mule deer, coyotes, javelinas and jackrabbits make their homes amid a variety of desert wildflowers.

DIRECTIONS: From Phoenix, drive east on U.S. Route 60 for approximately 25 miles to Idaho Road and turn left. Go north on Idaho Road for approximately 5 miles, and veer right onto State Route 88 (the Apache Trail). The park is located at 6109 N. Apache Trail, in Apache Junction.

VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None INFORMATION: Lost Dutchman State Park, 480-982-4485 or www.azstateparks.com/parks/lodu

Sonoran Desert National Monument

The Sonoran Desert is the most biologically diverse desert in North America, and the Sonoran Desert National Monument protects more than 487,000 acres of that rare landscape. The monument contains three distinct mountain ranges - the Maricopa, Sand Tank and Table Top mountains as well as the Booth and White hills, all separated by wide valleys. The monument is also home to three congressionally designated wil-derness areas, many significant archae-ological and historic sites, and the remnants of several important historic trails. What takes center stage in the spring, however, are the wildflowers. Enjoy the scenery, but keep in mind, the desert sun stirs up rattlesnakes and other reptiles as early as February, and flash floods, caused by sudden storms, can be dangerous in washes.

Directions: To reach the Margie's Cove Trailhead, drive north from Gila Bend on State Route 85 for approximately 12 miles to Woods Road near Milepost 134. Turn right onto Woods Road, cross the cattle guard, and follow the primitive road to the left around the corner of the right-of-way fence. Continue north, adjacent to the right-of-way fence, for 1 mile, turn right onto the primitive dirt road (BLM Route 8001), and continue east to the trailhead.

Vehicle requirements: A high-clearance vehicle is required.

Information: Bureau of Land Management, Lower Sonoran Field Office, 623-580-5500 or www.blm.gov/az For more wildflower viewing information, scan this QR code or visit www.arizona highways.com/outdoors.asp.

www.arizonahighways.com

WILDFLOWER VIEWING OPPORTUNITIES:

BEN AVERY TRAIL: 10.2 miles one way Owl clover is prevalent in the Eagletail Mountains Wilderness west of Phoenix, especially after a rainy winter season.

Picacho Peak State Park

Best known as the site of the only Civil War battle in Arizona, Picacho Peak is also a significant geologic landmark - the 1,500-foot peak was first documented by the Anza Expedition as it passed through the area in the 18th century. Today, the peak is the centerpiece of Picacho Peak State Park, which plays host to a variety of recreational opportunities, including hiking, camping and picnicking. Come spring, the peak is often surrounded by a sea of wildflowers that bloom amid the park's countless saguaros and chollas, and park rangers lead guided hikes seasonally.

WILDFLOWER VIEWING OPPORTUNITIES:

HUNTER TRAIL: 2 miles one way SUNSET VISTA TRAIL: 3.1 miles one way DIRECTIONS: Picacho Peak State Park is located on Picacho Peak Road, 65 miles southeast of Phoenix off of Interstate 10.

VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None INFORMATION: Picacho Peak State Park, 520-466-3183 or www.azstateparks.com/parks/ pipe

Eagletail Mountains Wilderness

Named for the three stone shafts that resemble the feathers of an eagle, the Eagletail Mountains Wilderness is a magnet for outdoor enthusiasts, including rock climbers. At 3,300 feet, Eagletail Peak is the literal high point of the wilderness, which comprises 97,880 acres, but there's much more to explore in this protected environment 65 miles west of Phoenix. In addition to wildflowers, there's the usual Sonoran Desert flora - ocotillos, chollas, creosotes, ironwoods, saguaros, barrel cactuses and mesquites - along with mule deer, desert tortoises, bobcats, mountain lions and peregrine falcons. There's rock, too, including natural arches, high spires, monoliths and jagged sawtooth ridges. Courthouse Rock, a huge granite monolith on the northern end of the wilderness, stands more than 1,000 feet above the desert floor - this is where the technical rock climbers like to hang out.

DIRECTIONS: To Courthouse Rock, from Phoenix, take Interstate 10 west for 63 miles to Salome Road, turn left at the stop sign and make an immediate right onto Harquahala Valley Road. Continue on Harquahala Valley Road for 5 miles to the intersection of Centennial Road and Courthouse Road. Turn right onto Centennial Road and continue west for 6.5 miles to Pipeline Road (unmarked). Turn right onto Pipeline Road and continue for 3.8 miles to backcountry route YE013 (near the wilderness designation sign). Turn left and park near the information kiosk.

VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: A high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle is required.

INFORMATION: Bureau of Land Management, Yuma Field Office, 928-317-3200 or www.blm. gov/az

Bartlett Lake

Created by the construction of Bartlett Dam in 1939, the 2,830-acre Bartlett Reservoir is a favorite among anglers, boaters and wildflower enthusiasts. Located just minutes from Carefree, the lake, named for government surveyor Bill Bartlett, is home to a variety of flora and fauna. In fact, several staterecord fish have been caught there, including a 7-pound smallmouth bass and a 37-pound flathead catfish. Following a wet winter, the lake's 33 miles of shoreline bloom with desert wildflowers, including goldpoppies, lupines and scorpion-weed.

DIRECTIONS: From Carefree. drive east on Forest Road 24 (Bartlett Dam Road) for 7 miles to Forest Road 19, turn right, and continue 14 miles to the reservoir.

VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None INFORMATION: Cave Creek Ranger District, 480-595-3300 or www.fs.usda.gov/tonto

Saddle Mountain

Desert bighorn sheep, Gila monsters, kit foxes, Cooper's hawks, prairie falcons and golden eagles are among the 162 wildlife species that make their home on Saddle Mountain, 50 miles west of downtown Phoenix. The volcanic mountain rises 3,037 feet above the Harquahala Plain and features unique archaeological sites and spectacular cliffs, spires and buttes tinted by andesite, rhyolite and basalt. And there are wildflowers, too. As a whole, Saddle Mountain offers a rare opportunity for solitude on the outskirts of the sixth largest city in America, which is one of the reasons the Arizona Wilderness Coalition, the Tonopah Area Coalition and the Friends of Saddle Mountain are asking the Bureau of Land Management to set aside Saddle Mountain and its special secluded environment as a Wilderness Study Area, with the hope that someday it will be fully protected as designated wilderness under the Wilderness Act.

DIRECTIONS: From Phoenix, drive west on Interstate 10 for 50 miles to Tonopah (Exit 94), turn left onto 411th Avenue and continue 2 miles to Salome Highway. Turn right onto Salome Highway and continue 4 miles to the access point (there are no established trailheads).

VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None INFORMATION: Bureau of Land Management, Lower Sonoran Field Office, 623-580-5500 or www.blm.gov/az Guided hikes are available through the Friends of Saddle Mountain, 602-370-8062 or www.saddle mountain.org.

7 SIMPLE TIPS FOR SHOOTING WILDFLOWERS

by George Stocking Use a diffuser when shooting close-ups to turn harsh sunlight into an attractive glow. Place the diffuser between the sun and your subject, and control the glow by varying the distance from the subject to the diffuser.

Spring wildflowers are dependent on winter rains. For instance, Mexican goldpoppies require that the pattern of rainfall remain consistent. If the time between strong rainfalls exceeds two or three weeks, poppies in those areas will be weak come spring. Watch rainfall patterns in desired locations throughout the preceding winter. Photographers should be aware of the tendencies and behavior of their subjects. For instance, it helps to know that Mexican goldpoppies open only under direct sunlight and only if the air temperature remains warm enough. So, when planning morning or evening shots, keep in mind that the poppies will open about 45 minutes after the sun rises and close 45 minutes before the sun sets. Primroses bloom at night.

San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation

From Point of Pines to San Carlos lakes and the Upper Salt River Canyon, the San Carlos Apache Reservation is chock-full of recreational opportunities. There, you'll also find a variety of wildlife, including bighorn sheep, elk, antelope and migratory birds, as well as the world's largest deposit of peridot, which local artisans craft into jewelry and collectibles. San Carlos is also a great place to see spring wildflowers, particularly along U.S. Route 70, which runs east-west across the reservation. Permits from the San Carlos Apache Tribe are required for recreation and fishing on the reservation. DIRECTIONS: From Globe, go east on U.S. Route 70 for 24 miles to the turnoff for Point of Pines Lake (Indian Route 8).

VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None INFORMATION: San Carlos Apache Recreation & Wildlife Department, 928-475-2343 or www.sancarlosapache.com

Apache Trail

As it winds through the Tonto National Forest, the 48-mile-long Apache Trail (State Route 88) passes a chain of manmade lakes, Canyon, Apache and Roosevelt. Built to transport supplies through the Superstition Mountains during the construction of Roosevelt Dam at the turn of the 20th century, the road features a number of switch-backs, a few harrowing climbs and descents, and some pretty impressive views of the surrounding wilderness, including a proliferation of spring wildflowers. The route also includes a number of tourist attractions, including Goldfield Ghost Town and Tortilla Flat.

DIRECTIONS: From Apache Junction, drive north on the Apache Trail (State Route 88) for approximately 48 miles to Roosevelt Lake.

VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: A high-clearance vehicle is recommended.

INFORMATION: Mesa Ranger District, 480-610-3300 or www.fs.usda.gov/tonto Any predator knows better than to sit and wait for prey to just walk by - the enterprising predator knows to go where the game hangs out. Flower hotspots will remain consistent from year to year due to seed distribution and a variety of other factors. Photographers should make a list of well-known flower locations and keep a detailed GPS record of how to return.

Use large apertures to create a blurry background. Large apertures, such as f/1.4, f/2.0 and f/2.8, will help create a painterly blur as you move your camera closer and closer to your subject. Use small apertures, such as f/16 and f/22, to keep everything sharp.

Look for flowers in unique groupings with dissimilar elements. What we call "intimate landscapes" often make better images than shots of like flowers in groupings of the same. Possibilities might include wildflowers intertwined with a prickly pear cactus or growing between the ribs of a fallen saguaro.

Try to emphasize color contrast. For instance, photograph a lone owl clover (magenta) against a background of brittlebush flowers (yellow), or a single lupine (blue/ purple) against a sea of Mexican goldpoppies (orange).